It’s soft and simple with the prettiest green and white colors, and I am so excited to share this super simple Christmas DIY project with you today. If you have piles of scrap wood leftover from past projects like I do, this is the perfect way to make use of them and decorate your home for the holidays! And if you don’t hoard scrap wood like I do, you just need to pick up one board from the store and a few basic tools to complete this project!

Scrap Wood Christmas Trees

project cost: free

SUPPLIES:

scrap wood – I used 2 x 6 boards
tape measure
saw
sander
finish of choice – I used:
Minwax Water Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
Minwax Water Based Wood Stain color: White Wash Pickling + Driftwood
Minwax Water Based Polycrylic

STEP 1

Cut pieces of scrap wood to varying lengths using a saw. I cut mine to 12″, 10″, 8″, 6″, and 5″. Make a mark in the center of one end, and use a pencil to draw a triangle. Cut the wood on the lines you drew to create a simple triangle Christmas tree.

– I used 2 x 6 boards because the thicker 1 ½” material is more sturdy and stands better than 1 x boards that are only ¾” thick. But you can use any kind of scrap wood you have!

STEP 2

Sand all sides of your trees until smooth, and wipe them clean. Apply Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner to the trees, and allow it to penetrate for 1-5 minutes before removing any excess that has not soaked into the wood with a clean rag. The conditioner helps the stain soak into the wood more evenly and prevents any blotchiness or streaking.

Next apply Minwax Water Based Wood Stain in the color/s of your choice, and allow it to penetrate the wood no longer than 3 minutes. It is very fast-drying, so you will only want to do one or two trees at a time! Wipe the wood with a clean cloth to remove any stain that has not soaked into the wood. I chose to stain these trees rather than paint them so you could still see the beautiful wood grain, but have a soft hint of color. The water based stains are perfect for that! After 24 hours you can apply a thin coat of Minwax Water Based Polycrylic (I used the clear matte finish) using a brush.

After the finish is completely dry, you have a whole forest of sweet, little Christmas trees to decorate with! I knew I wanted these scrap wood trees to go on the mantel in my bedroom, and I love the soft colors and silhouettes they create. The white wash pickling stain is the perfect creamy white color to soften the yellow of the wood, and the driftwood color is a really unique gray with a lot of green undertones that is perfect for a Christmas themed project.

I just love this simple look for the holidays, and a few white votive candles scattered around the trees on the mantel was the perfect finishing touch. I am so excited to continue decorating for Christmas now!

I partnered with Minwax on this post, but as always the thoughts and opinions shared are 100% my own. Thank you for supporting our blog and brand partners!

I’d love to hear what you think of this Christmas mantel look! Do you have any scrap wood you could use to make trees like these? Stay tuned for more holiday decorating coming soon. Thanks for stopping by today, friend! xoxo Liz

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The post Scrap Wood Christmas Trees – A Simple Christmas Mantel appeared first on Love Grows Wild.

A couple months ago one of my girlfriends asked if her real estate company could film a marketing video in my home, and I was beyond flattered and humbled by her request. It also gave me the kick in the pants I needed to finish some projects around the house that I had been neglecting forever, like the blank wall space between my two windows in the living room. My first idea was to build a mantel and hang a mirror above, but I couldn’t shake the burning desire (okay, maybe that’s a little dramatic) for pretty shelves to play with. So I drove to IKEA, picked up a simple white bookshelf, and assembled it as soon as I got home.

BUT as most of you who have ever assembled an IKEA or similarly inexpensive bookshelf know, the flimsy, thin piece of cardboard they give you to nail on the back of the bookshelf not only looks cheap, but it eventually pulls away from the bookshelf, leaving the piece unstable and looking junky. Want to know the simple upgrade I made to give it a more high end look and bump up the style? Keep reading, friends…

Before I get to the IKEA hack, I want to share a little insight on picking out the bookshelf itself. I first looked online before I went to the store, and originally I had my eye on the LIATORP bookcase because the pretty trim details. But what I didn’t realize until I saw it in store was how cream/ivory the finish was, which you can’t tell from looking at the website. I’m so glad I went to the store instead of ordering online because I know I would have had to send it back. I wanted a pure white to match the walls or pretty close to it.

My next choice was the HEMNES bookcase in the white stain finish. It still has more trim details than the basic BILLY bookcase, but not nearly as expensive as the LIATORP. And most important, it was a beautiful pure white. So the HEMNES bookcase is what ended up coming home with me. Moral of the story is that even though I do a TON of shopping and sourcing online, sometimes for big items it’s best to see it in person first!

Also, side note: If you’re the type of person who dreads putting together IKEA furniture, this bookshelf was probably the easiest IKEA furniture I’ve ever assembled!

The backing that comes with this particular bookcase had a slight wood grain pattern on it that wasn’t horrible, but wasn’t what I had in mind either. I decided to see if I could use 1 x 4 wood boards instead to not only make the bookcase nice and sturdy, but also give it a vertical shiplap look.

First, I measured the back of the bookcase. The width was 35″, and the height needed to cover the back was exactly 6′. Since 1×4 boards are actually only 3 1/2″ wide, it made the math really simple, and I picked up ten – 6 foot 1 x 4’s.

I knew it would be much easier to paint the boards before installing them on the bookshelf, especially because only one side of the board needed to be painted. HERE IS THE BIGGEST TIP YOU NEED TO LEARN FROM THIS POST… are you ready?

This is the primer you need to use, my friend. I know it’s tempting to buy a cheap can of primer since you’re going to paint over it anyway or even skip primer all together. I’ve certainly been guilty of both crimes in the past. But after painting many, many things white over the years, here is what I know for certain…

If you do not prime raw, bare wood with a high quality, stain blocking primer, within a few months to a few years the knots and grain in your wood WILL bleed through the paint and be visible. You will end up with yellow-brown stains on your wood, and I promise you will be very annoyed that you have to paint it again. I’ve experienced this more times than I’d like to admit, so learn from my mistakes!

This particular B-I-N Advanced Synthetic Shellac by Zinsser is my preferred primer because it covers well, hides stains, seals knots in wood, and is water-based, which makes cleaning your brushes a breeze. For full transparency, this is not sponsored in any way, and I just wanted to pass along my tried and true primer anytime I paint raw wood! I used one coat of primer, and two coats of ultra white paint in eggshell (Dutch Boy’s basic ultra white paint).

I set the painted side of the boards on the back of the bookcase and pre-drilled holes on the top and bottom to attach with screws. I should have known that the boards wouldn’t all be absolutely perfectly straight, so the last 1 x 4 had to be trimmed down to fit. I used my circular saw to cut the 1 x 4 down to about the same size as a 1 x 2 (1 1/2″ width), and it fit perfectly. If you are using this exact bookcase, you may want to grab a 6 foot 1 x 2 while you’re at the store in case you run into the same issue and don’t want to rip down any boards.

Tip: You don’t necessarily have to use the most expensive quality wood for this project (I went with the middle grade), but it is worth sorting through the lumber pile until you find the straightest boards available!

After the boards were attached to the back, I decided to caulk the seams where the outer 1x’s met the bookshelf. There was a large enough gap that needed covered, and I also think it gives the piece a more high end and less DIY look.

To make the application easy, I used a caulk gun and a tube of painter’s caulk, followed by the handy little corner tool shown below. I used this caulk finishing tool years ago when I installed all the board and batten trim in our living/dining room, and it was SO helpful to quickly smooth and clean up caulk lines. You just run the angled tool down the line of caulk, wiping excess caulk that builds up on the tool as you go. Having a few paper towels close by is helpful!

Then it was time to style the new bookcase…

This is my vision for perfect everyday, any time of year styling. Lots of neutrals balanced with items that have texture, interesting shapes, creamy whites, wood tones, a little bit of vintage, and a little bit of new. If you guys are interested, I may do a blog post about how to style shelves because there are some simple theories or “formulas” I have for making it really easy without looking either cluttered or too bare. I love this simple, clean look and that I now have a place to display some of my favorite accessories. You can count on seeing these shelves styled and restyled over and over again as the seasons start to change!

Note: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which allows me to make a small commission from your purchase, but your purchase price stays the same. When you use these links, I’m able to keep this blog going and make it better, so thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support!

Sources:

bookcase – IKEA
caulk gun
caulk finisher
set of 3 black candlesticks – IKEA
white two tone decorative vase – Target (out of stock)
large wood decorative bowl – IKEA
landscape painting print – Etsy
frame – Target
covered books – tutorial in my book, A Touch of Farmhouse Charm
small round vase – IKEA
round seagrass box with lid – IKEA
small two tone vase – Target (out of stock)
bamboo plate – IKEA
rustic pottery – HomeGoods
wooden hand – IKEA
white pitcher – Hobby Lobby
candle – IKEA
wire bin – vintage

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The post IKEA Bookshelf Upgrade appeared first on Love Grows Wild.

This beautiful storage trunk is one of the larger projects I’ve done in awhile, but it was actually really simple to assemble and I know this is a piece that will be with us for a long time to come. I cannot wait to dive in and finally share this project with you because I am SO pleased with how it turned out, and I honestly can’t decide whether I want to move it upstairs to my bedroom like I had originally planned or keep it down here in the living room. I absolutely love the light, bright look in here, but the wood grain peeking through the white stain gives it just enough texture to keep it from blending in with the rest of the light, neutral items in the room. Maybe I’ll style it in both spaces and take a vote on which way you like better!

P.S. Want to know how I made this succulent bowl? I have a tutorial here!

DIY Storage Trunk

finished dimensions: 53 1/2″ length x 21 3/4″ width x 18 3/4″ height
project cost: around $83 in lumber and screws + $23 for the hardware and hinges

SUPPLIES:

tape measure
saw
drill
brad nail gun
Kreg Jig pocket hole system
wood glue
1 1/4″ wood screws
1 1/4″ Kreg Jig pocket hole screws
2 1/2″ Kreg Jig pocket hole screws
1 1/4″ brad nails
30″ continuous hinge
lid support hinge (optional)
handles/pulls for sides and lid of trunk (optional)
sander
finish of choice – I used:
Minwax Water Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
Minwax Water Based Wood Stain mixed in: Pure White
Minwax Water Based Polycrylic

CUT LIST:

6 – 1 x 6 cut to 47″ (front + back panel)
6 – 1 x 6 cut to 18 1/2″ (side panel)
3 – 1 x 6 cut to 47″ (base panel)
2 – 2 x 4 cut to 52″ (long base frame)
2 – 2 x 4 cut to 21 1/2″ (short base frame)
4 – 1 x 4 cut to 18 1/2″ (short top + bottom trim)
4 – 1 x 4 cut to 50″ (long top + bottom trim)
4 – 1 x 4 cut to 9 1/2″ (corner trim)
4 – 1 x 3 cut to 9 1/2″ (corner trim)
1 – 3/4″ sheet 2′ x 4′ plywood cut to 21″ x 45″ (lid)
2 – 1 x 4 cut to 21″ (lid)
2 – 1 x 2 cut to 21″ (short lid trim)
1 – 1 x 2 cut to 53 1/2″ (long lid trim)

STEP 1

To build the front panel, lay three of the 47″ 1 x 6 boards next to each other on a flat surface and mark the placement of 28 pocket holes as shown in the diagram below. Note that the top board will not have pocket holes along the top.

Tip: Label each board as top, bottom, or middle before you move them so you will be able to easily identify later which boards belong where. It is also helpful to draw an arrow on each board pointing up so you know which direction the boards should face (this affects where the pocket holes are).

Use a pocket hole jig to drill 3/4″ pocket holes where you marked each board. Attach the boards using 22 – 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. The very bottom of the panel and the sides should not have any screws yet. Repeat all of Step 1 to create the back panel.

STEP 2

To build the side panel, lay three of the 18 1/2″ 1 x 6 boards next to each other on a flat surface and mark the placement of 13 pocket holes as shown in the diagram below. Note that the top board will not have pocket holes along the top.

Tip: Label each board as top, bottom, or middle before you move them so you will be able to easily identify later which boards belong where. It is also helpful to draw an arrow on each board pointing up so you know which direction the boards should face (this affects where the pocket holes are).

Use a pocket hole jig to drill 3/4″ pocket holes where you marked each board. Attach the boards using 13 – 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws, filling all the holes you just created. Repeat all of Step 2 to create a second side panel.

STEP 3

To build the base panel, lay the three 47″ 1 x 6 boards next to each other on a flat surface and mark the placement of 18 pocket holes as shown in the diagram below.

Use a pocket hole jig to drill 3/4″ pocket holes where you marked each board. Attach the boards using 18 – 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws, filling all the holes you just created.

STEP 4

Attach the side panels to the front and back panels using the holes you drilled on each board of the front and back panels and 12 – 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Note: As you build the box, none of the panels should have pocket holes along the top, and all of them should have pocket holes along the bottom.

STEP 5

Cut a 45º angle on both ends of each base frame board using a saw to create a frame for the base of your trunk. Drill 2 – 1 1/2″ pocket holes diagonally in both ends of the shorter 21 1/2″ boards using your pocket hole jig.

Note: Because you are switching from 3/4″ thick material (1 x’s) to 1 1/2″ thick material (2 x 4’s), make sure you adjust the jig to 1 1/2″ as well as the drill bit to 1 1/2″ before drilling your holes. (In the photo below I had not changed the jig or drill bit yet, so disregard that!)

Lay the frame boards together on a flat surface and make sure the base is square. Attach the boards using 8 – 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws, then flip the base over so the holes are on bottom.

STEP 6

Set the box you built in Step 4 on top of the base frame, making sure it is centered. Attach the box to the base using 14 – 1 1/4″ screws in the holes along the bottom of each panel.

STEP 7

Set the base panel you built in Step 3 inside the trunk. It should be snug on the ends and rest on the base frame.

The base panel should be snug enough not to move around, but you can use wood glue and brad nails to secure the panel to the base frame if desired.

STEP 8

Attach the short trim to the sides along the top and bottom of the trunk using wood glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails inserted from the inside to hide the nails. For added stability, add a 1 1/4″ wood screw to either end of the trim inserted from the inside also.

Then attach the long trim to the front and back along the top and bottom of the trunk using wood glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails inserted from the inside to hide the nails. For added stability, add a 1 1/4″ wood screw to either end of the trim inserted from the inside also.

STEP 9

Attach the corner trim to each corner of the trunk in the same manner as the previous step, with wood glue, 1 1/4″ brad nails, and 1 1/4″ wood screws for added stability. Attach the 1 x 3 piece of trim first on the sides of the trunk and flush with the edge of the side panel. Then attach the 1 x 4 piece of trim facing the front and back with the edge flush with the outside of the 1 x 3, as shown in the photo below.

STEP 10

Lay the plywood and 2 – 21″ 1 x 4’s for the lid on a flat surface and mark the placement of 10 pocket holes as shown in the diagram below.

Use a pocket hole jig to drill 3/4″ pocket holes where you marked each piece of the lid. Attach them together using 10 – 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and wood glue.

STEP 11

Flip the lid over so the holes are facing down, and attach the 1 x 2 lid trim, starting with the short pieces on the sides, using wood glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails. The edges of the trim should be flush with the edges of the lid.

Then attach the longer trim piece on just one side of the lid using wood glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails. The edges of the longer trim should be flush with the outside of the shorter trim.

STEP 12

Flip the lid back over so the underside is facing up, and attach a 30″ continuous hinge on the long side without the piece of 1 x 2 trim.

Then attach the other side of the hinge to the back of the trunk.

STEP 13

To finish the trunk, apply Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner to the entire piece (I left the inside of the trunk natural, but did stain the inside of the lid), and allow it to penetrate for just 1-5 minutes before removing any excess that has not soaked into the wood with a clean rag. The conditioner helps the stain soak into the wood more evenly and prevents any blotchiness or streaking.

Next apply Minwax Water Based Wood Stain  (I used the color Pure White – same as I used on our coffee table) on all of the wood you conditioned using a foam brush, and allow it to penetrate the wood no longer than 3 minutes. It is very fast-drying, so work in small sections! Wipe the wood with a clean cloth to remove any stain that has not soaked into the wood. Allow the stain to dry 24 hours before applying a protective finish.

After the stain has dried 24 hours, apply a thin coat of Minwax Water Based Polycrylic (I used the clear matte finish) using a brush. Allow to dry at least 2 hours, then sand with a very fine 220 grit sandpaper and remove all dust. Apply a second and third coat, drying and sanding in between each layer. The wood will need 3 hours to dry before handling and 24 hours before it will be fully cured.

If you’ve ever used a polyurethane on top of white paint and saw the yellow stains that appeared once the poly dried, you know how important it is to make sure you’re using the right topcoat. Because I went with a light white stain, I made sure to use Minwax Polycrylic that has a crystal clear finish when dry, and I love it!

Complete the trunk by adding any hardware you desire on the sides and a lid support for safety on the inside.

Note: I was originally inspired by Nick + Alicia’s blanket storage chest, but created my plan without the need to rip down any boards on a table saw since I don’t own one. It saves you quite a bit of time and extra steps without having to rip and trim some of the boards and plywood down.

If you’re still with me at the end of this post, you’re awesome! I know this was a big post with lots of photos, but I wanted to make sure to show you each step along the way because I know this is a project many of you are going to want to recreate. I can’t wait to see this beautiful handmade trunk in different spaces in your homes! Thank you so much for stopping by today to check out my newest project, and I appreciate you so very much! xoxo Liz

I partnered with Minwax on this post, but as always the thoughts and opinions shared are 100% my own. Thank you for supporting our blog and brand partners!

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If you’ve been around here for awhile, you probably remember the big wooden planter boxes I had on porch years ago, and I knew I wanted something similar to those again. The ones I built previously I ended up having to trash after a few years because of two reasons: 1) I used regular pine lumber, which is not very durable for outdoors long term and 2) The way they were constructed was not very sturdy, and the design needed tweaking to make them more solid.

The original planter boxes only used 2 x 2’s for the legs, and as I started screwing boards into them, they immediately started splitting no matter how careful I was. They definitely needed more substantial legs, so I switched those out for 4 x 4’s, which made a huge difference in the strength of the project, and I also used red cedar this time around instead of pine. Cedar is naturally resistant to moisture and warping, so it is the perfect option for outdoor projects. These planters were easy to build and will last much, much longer than the previous ones. I am so excited to see how they look with the new front door once it gets here!

Since our house faces North, the porch is pretty much always in full shade, so ferns are the obvious easy choice for the planters. This particular variety is a Ghost Fern, which has a different shape than a traditional fern and more sage, silvery leaves than the bright green you usually see. The beauty of this project is that there is a shelf built inside so you can simply set a potted plant in the planter and remove it easily at the end of the season. So easy!

These planters turned out to be one of my favorite things I’ve built, and I love the way they cozy up my tiny little porch. I took tons of photos as I built them because I’ve had so many requests for a tutorial like this, so here we go! Details for the stain and finish I used to make sure these planters last a long time are in the instructions below!

Tall Outdoor Cedar Planter

finished planter dimensions: 17 1/2″ length x 17 1/2″ width x 24″ height
project completion time: approximately 3 hours to cut boards and build + 1 day to sand and apply stain and topcoat (including drying time)

SUPPLIES:

tape measure
saw
drill
countersink drill bit
Kreg Jig pocket hole system – see note in Step 5 before starting project
wood glue
1 1/4″ wood screws
1 1/4″ Kreg Jig pocket hole screws
sander
finish of choice – I used:
Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
Minwax Wood Finish Stain in Driftwood
Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane

CUT LIST:

4 – cedar 4 x 4 cut to 23.25″ (legs)
12 – cedar 1 x 4 cut to 21″ (sides)
8 – cedar 1 x 4 cut to fit – approx. 10 1/2″ (top + bottom trim for sides)
2 – cedar 1 x 3 cut to fit – approx. 10 1/2″ (cleats)
4 – cedar 1 x 3 cut to fit – approx. 13 1/2″ (platform)
2 – cedar 1 x 4 cut to fit – approx. 17 1/2″ (long top trim)
2 – cedar 1 x 4 cut to fit – approx. 10 1/2″ (short top trim)

Important Notes:

– Some boards are measured and cut as you build to ensure you have the most precise measurements possible. I listed approximate measurements to help guide you, but because lumber can have some variances, always measure and cut to fit your project!

– Cedar is a great material for outdoor projects and will be able to withstand the sun and weather much better than the traditional pine lumber I normally use. I was able to find all of the 1 x 3 + 1 x 4 cedar boards next to the pine lumber in my home improvement store, and the 4 x 4 cedar posts I found outside next to the treated lumber. Cedar boards have one smooth side and one more rough side, so make sure you pay attention to which side faces out as you are building. 

– Use a countersink drill bit to pre-drill ALL holes before inserting screws to avoid splitting the wood and also to make the screw heads sit flush with the wood.

– This tutorial makes ONE planter. I doubled the materials to build two for my front porch!

STEP 1

Lay three of the 1 x 4 side boards down next to each other, measure the total width, and cut two 1 x 4 boards to that length for the top and bottom trim pieces (approx. 10 1/2″). Use glue and 1 1/4″ wood screws to attach the three side boards to the top and bottom trim.

Note: I used two scrap pieces of wood to hold the trim pieces steady and level while I attached the side boards.

Repeat Step 1 three more times to build all four sides.

STEP 2

Next, measure and cut a 1 x 3 to use as a cleat for the inside of your planter. It should be the same length as the top and bottom trim pieces (approx. 10 1/2″). Measure 13 1/4″ down from the top of one of your sides, and make a mark with a pencil. This is where the bottom of the cleat will sit (it should be on the opposite side of the trim pieces). Attach the cleat with glue and 1 1/4″ wood screws.

Note: A potted plant will sit on top of a shelf that rests on the cleats, so if you have a specific size pot in mind you want to use (it won’t be seen so it doesn’t have to be fancy) you may want to measure how tall the pot is and make sure your cleat is sitting high or low enough to accomodate the pot. I went to the nursery first and found the plants I wanted to use so I could make sure the cleats were at the right height I needed. A standard medium size pot is perfect for this cleat height! Remember, you can always add more boards on top of the shelf to raise the plant up, but you can’t lower it once it’s attached. So if you’re unsure, go slightly lower than you think for the shelf height.

Repeat Step 2 one more time so that you have two sides with a cleat attached and two sides without a cleat attached.

STEP 3

Use your pocket hole jig to drill two holes into all four corners of the sides. You’ll need pocket holes on all four sides you built to attach the legs in the next step.

STEP 4

Take one of the 4 x 4 legs and measure 1 1/2″ in from one side. This mark will be where you place the back (the side with the cleat) of your side piece.

Line up the top of the side piece with the top of the leg, leaving about 2″ open at the bottom, which will become feet for the planter. Remember, the cleat should be positioned closer to the bottom of the side piece than the top. Use glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the side to the leg.

Repeat on the other side with another 4 x 4 leg to complete one finished side.

Grab the other side piece with the cleat attached and repeat Step 4 again to have two completed sides with legs.

STEP 5

Lay one of the completed sides down with the cleat facing up, and attach the two sides without a cleat to a leg using glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. The pocket holes, screws, and cleats will all be hidden inside the planter, and the trim pieces should be facing out.

Attach the last finished side with glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Note: Because of the size of the planter, it may be a tight fit to get your drill inside to attach the last side. Kreg Jig makes both a 6″ and 3″ long square driver bit, and I had to run to the store to buy the shorter 3″ driver to finish attaching this side. You could also use a screwdriver that has a #2 square bit attachment, but a drill is much easier!

STEP 6

Sit the planter upright and measure the width of the top. Cut two 1 x 4 boards to that measurement (approx. 17 1/2″) to use as the longer top trim.

Attach the trim to the top of the planter with glue and 1 1/4″ wood screws. The trim should sit right on top of and flush with the 4 x 4 legs and have a small overhang over the side trim.

Then, measure between the two longer top trim pieces you just added to get the length for the shorter top trim pieces (approx. 10 1/2″). Cut two 1 x 4 to that length and attach to the top with glue and 1 1/4″ wood screws.

Note: I chose to use screws to attach the top trim, but you could also use brad nails instead. I wanted to make sure the trim wouldn’t start to pull away from the planter as it ages, so that is the reason I went with screws over nails, but you can also use wood filler over the screw heads to hide them in before you paint or stain. The plant I added will cover up the screws anyway, so I didn’t worry about that step, but the choice is up to you!

STEP 7

Measure inside the planter where boards will lay across the cleats to create a platform for a potted plant (approx. 13 1/2″). Cut four 1 x 3 pieces to that length and lay them across the cleats.

STEP 8

Apply Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner to the entire planter, and allow it to penetrate for 5-15 minutes before removing any excess that has not soaked into the wood with a clean rag. The conditioner helps the stain soak into the wood more evenly and prevents any blotchiness or streaking.

STEP 9

Within two hours of using the wood conditioner, apply Minwax Wood Finish Stain on the entire planter and allow it to penetrate for 5-15 minutes to achieve the desired color. The longer you leave the stain on the wood, the darker and richer the color will be, but make sure to remove any stain that has not absorbed into the wood with a clean cloth after the maximum 15 minutes. If you still want the color to be darker after the first coat, apply a second coat after allowing the first coat to dry for 4-6 hours.

I chose the color Driftwood for my planter because cedar naturally weathers and grays over time anyway, and I thought the subtle aged gray finish would be the perfect compliment. I also really like the natural look of cedar and didn’t want to do something too dark and dramatic that would take away from its beauty!

Allow the stain to dry for a minimum of 8 hours (or more for high humidity or low temperatures) before applying a protective finish.

STEP 10

For outdoor projects like this planter, it’s important to choose a finish that will help protect the wood over time. I used Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane in Clear Satin because it is specially formulated for wood exposed to sun, moisture, and temperature changes. UV blockers reduce graying and fading from the sun, and special oils allow the finish to expand and contract with the wood as the seasons and temperatures change. It also creates a protective barrier from rain and moisture, so your planter will last for many, many years to come!

Apply a thin coat of Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane using a natural bristle brush. Allow it to dry for at least four hours, then sand the entire surface lightly with very fine (220 grit) sandpaper to ensure and even finish and good adhesion for the following coats. Apply a second coat and third coat, again allowing to dry four hours and sanding in between coats. After the final coat, allow the planter to dry for a full 24 hours before normal use.

I hope you guys are enjoying doing some outdoor projects this summer! Stay tuned for more from me, sweet friends. xoxo Liz

I partnered with Minwax on this post, but as always the thoughts and opinions shared are 100% my own. Thank you for supporting our blog and brand partners!

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I hated to spend more money on a coffee table when I already had a perfectly good one, so I went the DIY route after seeing the table my friend Little Glass Jar made, and I am SO happy I did. This entire table that fits our sectional sofa perfectly cost just $53.76 in lumber, plus another $52 in stain and a topcoat since I wanted to try some new stain colors for this project. If you add up the screws and foam brushes I bought, plus all the other materials, my total cost was just $112.00 for a brand new, beautiful coffee table!

Of course I wouldn’t leave you hanging without sharing a tutorial, so let’s dive in and build a coffee table today!

Simple DIY Coffee Table

finished table dimensions: 46″ length x 23″ width x 17 3/4″ height
project completion time: approximately 2 hours to cut boards and build + 1 day to sand and apply stain and topcoat (including drying time)

SUPPLIES:

tape measure
saw
drill
countersink drill bit
wood glue
2 1/2″ screws
sander
stain/paint finish of choice – I used:
Minwax Water Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
Minwax Water Based Wood Stain mixed in: Desert Sand and Pure White
Minwax Water Based Polycrylic

CUT LIST:

4 – 2 x 2’s cut to 46″ (base – long sides)
4 – 2 x 2’s cut to 13″ (legs)
5 – 2 x 2’s cut to 20″ (base – short sides + middle support)
4 – 2 x 6’s cut to 46″ (top)

STEP 1

Attach two of the 46″ base pieces to two of the 20″ base pieces to create a box using wood glue and 2 1/2″ screws. This will be the bottom of the table base.

Important Notes:

• Use a countersink drill bit to pre-drill ALL holes before inserting screws to avoid splitting the wood and also to make the screw heads sit flush with the wood.
• In step 3 when you attach the legs to the table base, you will end up with two screws being placed very close to each other. To work around that, make sure the screws you use in steps 1 and 2 are offset to one side to allow room for the screws you will use later on. Reference the photo in step 3 to see where I placed my screws. 

STEP 2

Repeat step 1 to create a second box. This time, add another 20″ 2 x 2 to the middle to act as a support for the 2 x 6’s that will go on top.

STEP 3

Connect the two table base pieces you just built by adding the 13″ legs in between on the corners.

Important Note:

The photo below shows how I offset my screws to the sides to allow room for both.

STEP 4

It will be easier to stain the table base and top 2 x 6 boards separately before you finish assembling the table, especially if you use two different stain colors like I did.

First, sand the wood with 150 grit or higher sandpaper to achieve a smooth, even surface before staining. Thoroughly remove all dust from the wood by using a vacuum with a hose attachment, then wiping clean with a damp cloth.

STEP 5

First apply Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner to both the table base and top 2 x 6 boards.

I’ve learned over the years that starting with a wood conditioner helps the stain soak into the wood more evenly and prevents any blotchiness or streaking. I think of it like a makeup primer… it’s a necessary first step to prep and even out the surface for whatever you’re about to apply on top. I like to use a foam brush to apply the wood conditioner because it’s cheap and disposable when you’re done, but because all the finishes I’m using today are water based, cleaning brushes with soap and water would be very simple.

Apply the Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner and allow it to penetrate the wood for just 1-5 minutes, then remove excess conditioner that has not soaked into the wood with a clean rag.

STEP 6

Apply Minwax Water Based Wood Stain to all of the wood. I had the color Desert Sand mixed for the top 2 x 6 boards and the color Pure White mixed for the table base. What I love about the water based stain is 1) how easy clean up is… 2) how little odor the stain has… 3) the colors. You can get everything from bold, colorful shades to neutral wood tones to light, creamy cottage and ocean-inspired stains.

Apply the stain using a foam brush, and allow it to penetrate the wood no longer than 3 minutes. It is very fast-drying, so work in small sections! Wipe the wood with a clean cloth to remove any stain that has not soaked into the wood. Allow the stain to dry 24 hours before applying a protective finish.

Tip: I always wear a pair of gloves when wiping off the excess stain to keep my hands clean. The water based stain is easy to remove, but it’s just easier to wear a pair of gloves!

Before Stain | After Stain

The Pure White stain might be my absolute favorite. It gives a whitewashed appearance and beautifully softens the wood grain while toning down the yellow of the raw wood.

STEP 7

After the stain has dried 24 hours, apply a thin coat of Minwax Water Based Polycrylic (I used the clear matte finish) using a brush. Allow to dry at least 2 hours, then sand with a very fine 220 grit sandpaper and remove all dust. Apply a second and third coat, drying and sanding in between each layer. The wood will need 3 hours to dry before handling and 24 hours before it will be fully cured.

If you’ve ever used a polyurethane on top of white paint and saw the yellow stains that appeared once the poly dried, you know how important it is to make sure you’re using the right topcoat. Because I wanted a light white stain on the bottom of the table, I made sure to use Minwax Polycrylic that has a crystal clear finish when dry, and I love it!

STEP 8

Attach the top 2 x 6 boards to the table base from the underside to hide all screws.

I found it easiest to line up the two outer boards with the edge of the table base first and attach those, then space the two middle boards evenly and attach those second. There will be about a 1/2″ gap between the boards.

I love the warmth and simplicity this new table brings to the space, and I was able to custom build it to the perfect size for my sectional, which sits a little lower than normal sofas do. I also love that this whole project was created with just a saw and drill and no other special tools were required. Anyone could build this!

So what do you guys think of the new coffee table? How do you feel about the stain colors, and have you used Minwax Water Based Stain before? It’s so easy to apply and clean up afterwards! I’ll have a few more living room updates to hopefully share with you soon!

I partnered with Minwax on this post, but as always the thoughts and opinions shared are 100% my own. Thank you for supporting our blog and brand partners!

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The post Simple DIY Coffee Table appeared first on Love Grows Wild.